Comparing Diamond Shapes

Last updated on April 24, 2023

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Considered rare and beautiful, diamonds are certainly very attractive gemstones which can be extremely valuable. They are exceptionally difficult to work with due to how hard they are as a material which makes shaping them an even greater challenge.

In this article we are going to take a look at the shapes diamonds are commonly cut into to help you compare and contrast your options. You will learn about some of the inherent properties of certain cuts and hopefully learn that you have a favorite.

How Many Types of Diamond Shapes Are There?

The vast majority of high quality diamonds have been carved into one of 10 different available shapes. These include round, princess, emerald, cushion, marquise, Asscher, radiant, oval, pear and heart. Craftspeople work the rough diamonds making specific cuts in order to form these shapes and the quality of the job they do is known as cut quality.

The final shape will often have a big impact on the brilliance of a diamond as well as other visual elements so the choice of shape can really make or break a piece of quality diamond jewelry.

Since 1477 when Archduke Maximillian of Austria commissioned the first known diamond engagement ring for his betrothed Mary of Burgundy it has become tradition amongst European aristocracy to have similar rings.

This for centuries remained the practice of the upper classes who could afford the diamonds which were set into the engagement rings. Throughout the Victorian era it then became popular to create jewelry with diamonds and other precious stones mounted. It wasn’t until the 1930s however that diamond engagement rings became considered tradition and the norm.

In response to the drop in sales caused by the great depression De Beers, the company who controlled most of the diamond production, started pushing ad campaigns to heighten the profile of diamonds. They used stars of the big screen to showcase diamonds and try to increase their appeal with the average person.

Finally the concept of diamond engagement rings was cemented in 1947 with the De Beers now famous slogan “Diamonds are Forever.” These gemstones had now become associated with eternal love due to their unbreakable reputation.

Today decades later we have countless sources for buying diamonds of various values ranging from a few hundred dollars to millions. The vast majority of these diamonds will be cut into one of the 10 main shapes

Cutting Diamonds

The process used to cut diamonds is a complicated one and takes a great deal of skill. Years ago it was much more difficult as it was all done with intricate tools and by hand. Today advances in technology allows for the use of complex equipment but still requires artistic skill.

Planning the Cut

Years of training and experience help diamond carvers learn how to evaluate a rough diamond and plan what they are going to do with it. Will they try and create a large single diamond which may create more waste or several smaller diamonds to maximize the available material?

What kinds of shapes will the diamond support best? Will it require cutting and cleaving? In the early days this all had to be done by eye and instinct but today you can scan the diamond and get an insight into its structure in order to guide the work.

Enacting the Cutting Plan

After planning out the process the next step is to start making the cuts firstly removing the non-diamond material from the surface and then starting to make cuts to develop the intended final shape of the piece.

Some shapes will take longer to craft than others and are often referred to as “Fancy Shapes.” Once the general shape has been achieved with expert cuts the diamond then has to be polished to create a clear surface through which the qualities of the diamond can ultimately shine.

1. Round (Brilliant) Cut

Also known as the brilliant cut due to its amazing ability to display fire and sparkle, the round cut is by far the most common and popular of all the shapes. The 58 facets that make up a round cut if executed well can bring out the very best features of the diamond.

Specialist round cuts may sometimes have more than the standard 58 cuts which serves to even further enhance the diamond's brilliance. This requires a higher level of skill and when done correctly can create heart and arrow shapes in the diamonds that can improve the quality and of course the value of the piece.

Different diamond manufacturers may have different ways of achieving the round cut but the generally accepted method is by using at least 58 cuts or facets. Despite being the most common it is also one of the trickiest to get right.

Often round shapes are used with flawless quality diamonds because the sheer visibility created from the shape leaves little room for imperfections. Some shapes may hide the sins of a few imperfections but round cut diamonds are not forgiving.

2. Princess Cut

The Princess cut is a relatively new kid on the block with the term first being used in the late 1970s. Its origins come from earlier now defunct cuts such as the Barion cut and the Quadrillion. Craftsman Israel Itzkowitz is credited as having made this cut popular.

Visually the princess cut is a square diamond shape that seeks to balance enhanced brilliance with a more forgiving nature when it comes to hiding inclusions. Often featuring 58 facets this squared stone is in many ways similar to the round brilliant just not rounded at the edges.

The name connotation alone makes this a popular choice with brides because who doesn’t want to feel like a princess when they get married?

One of the great advantages of this cut is that it is less wasteful in terms of material removal. Not having to create the rounded corners a princess cut can use up to 80% of the rough stone. This makes them more economical to cut and generally cheaper to purchase as a result.

3. Emerald Cut

As the name would suggest gemstone cutters first designed this cut for emeralds because it reduced the pressure needed during the cutting process. This prevented chips in the emeralds helping create a better finished product.

It didn’t take diamond carvers long to realize the cut worked the same way with diamond. This cut was for centuries known as the table cut but around the 1920s the cut became more popular and the name emerald cut took over.

The gradual stepped rectangular shape requires fewer facets than most cuts which does little to boost the brilliance of the piece. So instead of constant sparkle as with some diamonds you will get flashes of dramatic light if combined with the right setting.

You will want a high setting to get the best out of an emerald cut. When done well it makes for an effective piece with famous names like Amal Clooney and Angelina Jolie sporting emerald cut diamonds on their rings.

4. Asscher

The I.J Asscher diamond company was founded in Holland in 1854 by Joseph Isaac Asscher. It was 46 years later that his grandson, also named Joseph, created what is known today as the Asscher cut. In many ways it resembles the emerald cut but the younger Joseph modified this with certain criteria.

These criteria would include larger step facets, a higher crown and a smaller table. These modifications would lead to a more brilliant effect in the final piece. The other result was a heavier diamond with 58 facets, this was more than a standard emerald cut featured.

From its creation in 1902 up until the second world war the Asscher cut was a patented style which only they were allowed to produce. It was a hit during the art deco period as was the traditional emerald cut and it really peaked in popularity in the 1920s.

In recent years it has seen a resurgence in popularity as styles inevitably come back into fashion especially those from the 1920s. For many decades the cut was largely resigned to vintage pieces so it is a happy thing to see it regaining traction.

5. Cushion

Extremely popular in the modern day people often do not realize that the cushion cut shape has been around since the nineteenth century. Formerly known as the mine cut it is a squared diamond with rounded corners.

Its original name referred to the Brazilian mines at the time who were quickly becoming known as the “old mines” as new diamond sources were being found in South Africa. The mine cut only features 58 facets however with the more modern cushion cut having 64.

Optically the cut can look similar to the oval cut but it has fewer facets. As a result its brilliance is somewhat limited in comparison. This cut however does have a more unique look as it gives an antique look to any ring to which it is affixed.

6. Marquise

The grandly named Marquise cut has a somewhat risqué origin as it was first commissioned in the 18^th century by King Louis XV of France. Louis’ brief was to create a diamond that resembled the lips of his mistress.

This mistress was Jean Antoinette Poisson also known more commonly as Marchioness Madame de Pompadour. The final diamond shape that developed from this process became a popular diamond cut worn by those holding the title of marquise. This hereditary rank fell between a count and a duke so the marquise cut became the symbol of that title.

The original diamond created may have well resembled the tempting lips of Madame de Pompadour but as the cut evolved it has come to resemble a kayak type shape with pointed ends and a broad middle. They are a great cut to make use of lesser quality diamonds as this cut will hide a multitude of imperfections.

It may not seem like it would perform well in brilliance but in fact its unique shape can pull in some impressive light and create a beautiful sparkle. Although still not as brilliant as the round cut the marquise can hold its own.

7. Radiant

What do you do if you want the best qualities of a round cut and the best qualities of the emerald cut? Well if it's 1977 and you're Henry Grossbard you get to work on creating the radiant cut. Having spent 30 years in the industry Grossbard took on the challenge of imbuing an emerald cut diamond with the same kind of fire normally reserved for a round brilliant.

Basically what Henry did was take the emerald cut shape and add as many facets as he could. The result was amazing, turning the normally muted flashes of the emerald into a sparkling wonder surpassed only by round cuts themselves.

8. Oval

Oval cuts of some fashion have been around in diamonds for hundreds of years but the oval style we know today is actually a very new variation. It was Russian-born diamond cutter Lazare Kaplan who created the modern day oval back in 1957.

Kaplan's maternal uncle Abraham Tolkowsky was the diamond cutter famous for inventing the Ideal cut but he had lineage in the profession on both sides of his family. Lazare was known to be the man who could take a diamond that others would discard and make something amazing from it.

His skills were largely ignored up until he invented the oval cut as we know it and he cemented his place in the history books of diamond cutting lore. His egg-shaped design creates amazing sparkle and has rotational symmetry.

9. Pear

Considered a somewhat edgy and modern design, the pear-shaped diamond can trace back to 1458 when Flemish polisher Lodewyk van Berquem first created it. Although impressive, this method is not van Berquem’s only claim to diamond cutting fame. You see, Lodewyk was also responsible for the concept of symmetry and placement of facets in popular diamond cuts.

So not only did Berquem give us the pear cut but also the entire concept of cuts that create maximum sparkle and shine from diamonds.

The big drawback of the pear cut and a huge reason it was not initially a hit was how much rough diamond is lost in the cutting process. Since then the shape has grown in popularity with one of the most famous examples being the Taylor-Burton diamond.

The 69.42 carat diamond was cut by Harry Winston and set in a platinum ring. Sold several times over its early history it ended up in the hands of Cartier who narrowly defeated actor Richard Burton at auction for the piece.

Determined to get the diamond for his then wife Elizabeth Taylor, Burton got his lawyers on the case, finally settling on a price of $1.1 million. It was renamed the Taylor-Burton diamond and retains this moniker to this day.

10. Heart

The concept of a heart-shaped diamond dates back to 1463. The Duke of Milan, Galeazzo Maria Sforza, and Nicodemo mentioned in conversation that mythical quests of the wealthy Cosimo de Medici were similar to a heart-shaped diamond. Essentially beautiful ideas but completely unreal.

It would be almost a century until the first recorded heart-shaped diamond would appear as part of a gift sent by Mary Queen of Scots to Queen Elizabeth. It was considered a symbol of friendship and good will.

A difficult cut to create, heart-shaped diamonds regularly command a premium. You often do not find larger examples of such diamonds although Cardinal de Richelieu is said to have once owned a 20 carat heart-shaped diamond.

It is certainly the most romantic shape for an engagement ring and it is definitely growing in popularity. It is however tricky to shape and costly.

Which Is the Best Diamond Shape?

Now you are putting me on the spot. I know what shape I like but the question is what shape grabbed your attention? It is possible to go back and forth all day espousing the qualities of the different shapes but ultimately we all have different tastes.

If you favor a diamond that has maximum sparkle and fire then a round brilliant is the obvious choice as long as the diamond is of good quality. But perhaps you find the round shape to be pedestrian and you want something more unique.

There are cuts as mentioned that have fantastic sparkle with a more varied and interesting shape. The type of ring setting you want may play a factor in the most suitable diamond shape. Remember light enters the base and sides of the diamond and reflects out of the top. A diamond that will be engulfed in the ring setting will not get the light it needs to shine.

I can’t tell you what shape to get all I can do is tell you something about them. Look at some examples of each shape that catches your interest if you like them then maybe that is the one for you.

How Does Shape Affect Price?

The only fair way to assess this is by looking at each shape and finding the maximum price for the same quality of diamond in each shape. Below you will find each shape with the cost of a 1 carat diamond, G color, very very slightly included 2 with a very good cut. The price is the maximum as found on James Allen.

Round = $8,450

Princess = $4,650

Cushion = $5,770

Emerald = $4,070

Oval = $6,700

Radiant = $6,200

Asscher = $6,200

Heart = $5,040

Pear = $6,660

Marquise = $4,980

In full disclosure we did have to drop the clarity down to very slightly included 1 for the marquise cut, meaning this was a slightly less perfect diamond than the other 9. The results are still quite telling however.

The most expensive shape unsurprisingly was the very sought after round brilliant at $8,450. At the other end of the scale was the emerald cut at $4,070. This test has shown the difference in price that can occur based on shape even between diamonds that otherwise are very similar.

Final Thought

The history of diamond shapes is very interesting as are the famous people who have owned examples of these diamonds. Centuries of working with diamonds has helped form a collection of shapes designed to get the best out of those heat and pressure treated lumps of carbon we seem so fascinated with.

Reference Diamond Size Chart

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